vintage fashion

March 31, 2018

1920s lame, shimmering 1920s dresses, capes and shawls

Virginia Ewart vintage fashion 1920s cape, 1920s dress, 1920s lame, early 1920s, flapper dress, gold lace, jazz age dress, lame shawl, opera cape

1920s lame draws me in every time. Whether it be a pastel fabric with a subtle shimmer of metallic thread, or a bold and brash golden opera cape that screams for attention. I love it when intertwined with coloured threads in a brocade or jacquard type fabric, spun into golden lace or simply woven as a mass of shimmering metallic fabric.

1920s lame dress-metallic lace — A golden lame and lace dress with beadwork sold at Augusta Auctions in 2016

I recently picked up this spectacular 1920s lame dress with metallic lace AND beaded fringe. The photographs do it no justice and the mix of textures in the silk jacquard underdress, golden metallic lace and flat woven golden lame are divine.

1920s lame dress -metallic lace dress- 1920s beaded fringe dress — Early 1920s golden lame and lace dress with lame silk Jacquard underdress and glass bead fringe. Available at Gingermegs Vintage.

Another shop favourite which sold pretty much immediately was the teal and gold lame dress below. The fabric is SO unusual, a crepon, but the crepe effect was giant sized. The dress has a large waist sash that ties at the hip like a swag with bands of chartreuse leaping out at you.

lame dress-1920s dress- teal and gold — 1920s lame dress in teal and gold with bands of chartreuse sold at Gingermegs Vintage

The beautiful 1920s evening gown below is one that I am working on. It needs re-hemming and a few stitches, but it will be available for sale soon. I just love how something so very gold can be so subtle and elegant.

1920s lame evening gown from Gingermegs Vintage

The dream dress below was designed by Jean Pateau and forma part of The Met Museum collection. The dress is constructed from golden silk and lame it is quite simply exquisite.

gold silk dress-1920s lame-jean patou — Jean Patou evening dress C1925, part of The Met Museum collection

I’ve seen some beautiful shawls online made from lame, the poppy design just blows me away, and the vibrant peony design is a thing of great beauty. From my own shop is a FABULOUS black and gold lame shawl with Art Deco depiction of turtles and palm trees.

1920s lame shawl — 1920s silver lame shawl with poppy design

colourful lame shawl with peony blossoms sold at Augusta Auctions in 2012

1920s lame shawl -art deco shawl — Art Deco turtle and palm tree design in black and gold

Searching for images on line you will find so many incredible lame coats and opera capes, here truly are some magnificent examples out there. Imagine being wrapped in a shimmering cocoon coat, or making your entrance to a dance with a bold lame cape wrapped around you. In my own shop you will find an exceptional lame jacket by Margaine Lacroix.

1920s opera cape — lame cape from Gingermegs Vintage

lame jacket-margaine lacroix-1920s beaded jacket — Lame jacket with sequins and beads by Margaine Lacroix

Paisley shawls in art- The Paisley Shawl, by Francis Henry Newbery. (c) Paisley Museum and Art Galler

March 23, 2018

Paisley shawls, a brief history of a 19th Century trend

Virginia Ewart vintage fashion antique shawl, kashmir shawl, paisley shawl, victorian shawl

Recently I have found myself with a burgeoning addiction to antique and vintage shawls in all their forms, and I have been lucky enough to view and handle some magnificent paisley and Kashmir shawls. I’ve written a VERY brief synopsis of their history (basically so that I can show you some pretty pictures) and included a link to a site with MUCH more information on their past and manufacture as I am still learning myself.

Paisley shawls were a fashionable item of European woman’s clothing during the 19^th century, but the instantly recognisable teardrop motif originated from Persia and India, where the Kashmir [paisley like ]shawl dates back to the 11^th century.

kashmir shawl — A traditional Kashmir shawl

They became known as paisley shawls when the Kashmir influenced designs came into production in Paisley, Scotland at the beginning of the 19^th century.

paisley shawl loom — A Paisley loom on display at the Paisley shawl museum

The woven design was labour intensive and required highly skilled workers and after an explosion in popularity after Queen Victoria purchased some Paisley shawls in 1942 manufacturing methods began to change, even to the point of designs been printed or embroidered so that manufacturers could keep up with demand.

victorian paisley shawls — A printed Paisley shawl from Gingermegs Vintage C1860

victorian paisley shawl — Blue taffeta afternoon dress with cashmere shawl, American, 1860s. Collection of the Kent State University Museum, 1995.17.52ab (dress) and 1983.1.1545 (shawl) Photograph by Joanne Arnett, 2012

Read more on Paisley shawls and the manufacturing process here.

The shawls fell out of favour by the 1870s, and during the late 19^th and early 20^th century people were remodelling their precious shawls. Gentleman’s dressing robes were popular, as were coats, cloaks and capes.

paisley coat from Poppy's vintage clothing — paisley coat from Poppy’s vintage clothing

1920s opera cape -Victorian paisley shawl — A paisley shawl C1870 remodelled into an opera cape in the 1920s from Gingermegs Vintage

remodelled paisley shawl — Paisley shawls remodelled into a dress, a coat, a hat and a bag

February 15, 2017

Etsy shop for Gingermegs Vintage

Virginia Ewart vintage fashion

Etsy is an online market place which sells the finest vintage and the most fabulous artisian crafts, I’m not sure why it took us so long to move our online shop there! We’re still stocking vintage from the 1800s up until the 1950s , but we’ve increased our range of fine jewellery and older vintage, as well as adding a vintage menswear section.

The past four months has been going swimingly, so I am going to take this opportunity to show off some of the pieces that I have sold.

The 1930s evening gown above is an absoolute stunner, the fabric looks to be shot with gold and the construction of the bodice is sublime. I adore the key hole back and the quirky bow on the bum. It’s one of those pieces that I shall miss, although I was glad to see it worn by one of my most favourite customers.

The 1920s devore blouse above will forever be in my heart. It is beyond beautiful. The silk velvet is screen printed and has tiny pink birds and colourful folliage admidst the ‘burn out’ of the devore. How something so delicate survived so well I know not.

Made from a brown satin type rayon crepon with devore collars and quited deep satin cuffs this gorgeous 1930s dress is realy rather special. Brown can be a hard one to sell, but I love it!

This yellow floral 1930s gown and jacket went to just the right person, I love it when that happens. There is the perfect person for every piece out there somewhere.

I do love a play suit or beach set and this late 1930s pairing was one of my favourites to date. It was in such good condition too!

I had had this 1920s assuit tunic for quite a while, stashed away in a drawer. It sold within a couple of hours of me listing it on Etsy and I was glad to see it finally fly the nest.

This mind blowing assuit coat from the 1920s left the building soon after it came in, i’m glad to say I got a chance to have a wee prance around the shopwith it on though!.

1950s chemise dress by Cristobal Balenciaga

April 5, 2016

The chemise dress 1700s-1950s

Virginia Ewart vintage fashion 1950s chemise dress, 1950s day dress, 1950s dress

Having two rather lovely 1950s chemise dresses in the shop, I decided to do a little investigating into their history. This style is not one I see often, perhaps because they are a bit of a ‘marmite’ dress. I am terribly fond of them and wish I had the body shape that would show one off to its finest, however, many people do not appreciate the design. The chemise is worn loose at the waist, concealing the female form so greatly emphasised by Dior in the late 40s and throughout the 1950s by designers across the world.

dior's new look dress — A New Look dress from Christian Dior’s 1947 spring/ summer collection

Both Balenciaga and Dior sent the chemise dress down the runway in 1957 (which I shall come back to later), however, this was by no means the beginning of the chemise.

From the 1700s up until the 1920s, the chemise was a commonly worn undergarment. It was loose fitting and knee length with a straight silhouette.

1760s chemise — A chemise from the 1960s worn beneath corset with panniers

1920s chemise — The chemise in the 1920s

However, in the 1780s, the chemise was to be worn by some, including the French Queen, as an outer garment. The chemise dress was constructed from layers of muslin that hung loosely, being given shape by a sash around the waist. The dress looked very like the undergarment after which is was named.

Marie Antoinette caused public outrage when she had her portrait painted wearing a chemise dress. Had the Queen been painted in her underwear?!

The chemise a la Reine, as was then known, gained in popularity, but the comfortable style continued to raise speculation and controversy. You will find much written about the chemise a la Reine, including this blog post The Chemise a la Reine by the Fashion Historian.

Marie Antoinette-Lebrun 1783 — Marie Antoinette wearing a chemise a la Reine, painted by Lebrun 1783

In the 1910s, the chemise dress once more became popular. A column like dress, belted at the waist.

Whilst the dresses of the 1920s were more like the chemise than any that came before them, the were not known as such. The next time the chemise was seen on the fashionista was in the 1940s, again, the chemise dress was a shapeless garment that was intended to be belted at the waist.

1940s chemise dress — Dressmaking pattern for a chemise dress in the 1940s

Belted chemise dresses remained popular into, and throughout the 1950s, and then came 1957. It was Dior’s final show, and one which caused quite a stir. That year both he and Balenciaga showed dresses that were constructed without even a passing nod to the waist, indeed, the 1950s chemise often ballooned out at the waist.

The chemise had men shaking their fists, it was deemed ugly, concealing the feminine form so emphasised previously. Of course, they were also revered, for being both modern and comfortable. A rebellion against the tightly corseted waists that had become fashionable. This was a look that was altogether new, it was something quite unique.

1957 dior chemise dress — 1957 Dior chemise dress

1950s chemise dress available from Gingermegs Vintage

Shop for 1950s dresses, chemise and otherwise here Gingermegs Vintage dresses.

January 12, 2016

My dreams are made of a 1940s coat (or three)

Virginia Ewart 1940s fashion, vintage fashion 1940s coat, 40s coat, fit and flare coat, princess coat

If you only ever buy one item of vintage clothing make it a coat, and if you only ever buy one vintage coat, make it a 1940s coat, you will not regret it! Spend a little more, don’t think ‘I am buying second hand, it must be cheap’, realise that to buy a coat of the quality you will find in a true vintage 40s coat you would have to spend hundreds of pounds today. The quality of fabric, the skill of the tailoring, the hand-finished hems and luxurious linings all add up to something truly special, and there aren’t many items that you could buy on the high street that will still be around and looking good in 70 years time.

The McCall coat pattern above is from 1940, and it is pretty much my dream coat. Wide shoulders and a princess line nipped waist falling into a slightly fuller skirt. The leopard trim finishes it off a treat and to be honest, I’d do most anything to get my paws on a 1940s coat like this.

Above is another princess line coat, this one is from 1944 and has a definite military feel. The wide shoulders and large lapels are so unmistakable 40s. This is a very utilitarian look, but it is no less elegant for the fact.

This plaid 1940s coat came into Gingermegs Vintage and was sold within minutes. I’d have kept it if there was any chance I’d ever be able to squash my boobs into it, trying and realising it was never going to happen pretty much reduced me to tears. Again, princess line with fabulous wide and slightly puffed shoulders, the perfect early wartime silhouette

From the French fashion and lifestyle magazine ‘Le Petit echo de la Mode’ we see illustrations of yet another princess line coat. This time with a wide belt and oversized patch pockets, and below is shown a glorious swing coat from a little later in the decade, the shoulders softer and the fabric more voluminous. The swing coat should swing whilst one walks, wearing one will make you feel like a movie star, I promise!

Another beauty to fly out the door was this fabulous 1940s princess line coat with grosgrain inserts and collar tips. It is a versatile, timeless piece, as relevant today as it was in the 40s.

Most people choose not to wear fur today, and for that I am truly grateful, but 70 years ago fur was a wardrobe staple. Here we can see Lucille Ball wearing a 1940s fur swagger coat. Swagger coats first became popular in the 1930s, the comfortable style hanging loosely from the shoulders

Above is another swagger coat, this one having a far more utilitarian feel. The 1940s swagger coat appears practical, a coat for every day. It is easy to move in and can be worn with day dresses or separates plus it will fit comfortably over a suit.

At the time of writing, this luxurious 1940s swagger coat is in the store and online. The easy to wear style is made special by the glorious mink cuffs and tippet.

I never know what 1940s coats I will have in store. I’ve had some beauties this season, but they always seem to fly, check here and see if you can find your dream 1940s coat before it disapears.

vintage coats at Gingermegs Vintage

womens rights poster from the early 1900s

March 30, 2015

Fashions of the 1920s

Virginia Ewart Uncategorized, vintage fashion

Following the end of WW1 in 1918 (some) women finally won the right to vote (the rest had to wait until 1928, but that’s another story), and there continued to be an increase in women in the paid workforce after an estimated two million British women took on the roles left by men during the war. This new found ‘freedom’ was seen in the fashions of the 20s.

Women were liberated from the corsetry and weighty petticoats of the early Edwardian era and centuries before it, as well as the hobble skirts of the later Edwardian era. These skirts may have emancipated the bust and waist, but whatever freedom the top half of the woman won, the bottom half lost.

victorian-woman-wearing-corset — Victorian corsetry was not made for comfort.

The Victorian corset, designed to give an hourglass shape using tightlacing to narrow the waist and then flaring out and ending several inches below the waist, exaggerating the curve of the hips.

woman-wearing-hobble-skirt-1910s — A woman wearing a hobble skirt in the 1910s. She’ll not be running anywhere!

The term ‘hobble skirt’ came into popular use in the early 1910s, a European fashion trend started attributed to the French designer Paul Poiret. Above you can see a woman wearing a hobble skirt, accessorised by a hobble garter, designed to limit the wearer’s stride so that she would not cause the skirt to rip. The hobble skirt was not the most practical of fashions, no stair climbing or getting anywhere fast in this get-up.

For most people, the image that is synonymous with 1920’s fashion, would be that of a flapper. A woman who smoked, drank and partied the night away. Rumour would have it she was a little promiscuous too. The flapper flouted convention, she wore her skirts high and her stockings low, she cut her hair short and generally did her damnedest to break away from traditional values and behaviours considered ladylike.

1920s flapper smoking and showing off her stockings in a daringly short skirt.

flappers smoking in their swimwea — Flappers having a cigarette whilst on the beach.

1920s women drinking alcohol — In 1925 these alcohol swigging young ladies would certainly have caused a stir.

Of course, in reality, for most women in the 20s life was hard. The majority of women had not the financial or social freedom to smoke, drink or have fun, and not all of those whom could afford the lifestyle chose to live it. Despite this, many adopted the fashions of the flapper. The adapted the style to suit their means, just as people around the world do today as clothing fads come and go.

clara Bow wearing a shorter length flapper dress — Channeling her inner gypsy, Clara Bow models a fabulous 1920s dress and hoop earrings.

Above, Clara Bow, the original ‘it’ girl of the 20’s can be seen modeling a wonderful 1920s dress, the design of which has been influenced by the heavily embroidered Manila shawls which were so popular in the era. Worn with hoop earrings and short socks, this look is a definite nod to the gypsy and bohemian fashions of the decade. Below Clara is wearing a particularly glamorous silver evening gown and looking every inch the screen siren.

1920s actress Clara Bow wearing a silver lame gown — Not all dresses were loose cut in the 20s, Clara Bow rocked figure hugging lame.

Below you can see an exquisite 1920s flapper dress, designed by Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, or Coco Chanel as she was more commonly known. Coco was a French fashion designer and founder of the Chanel brand, she was at the forefront of fashion design and innovation at the start of the 20th century, and beyond. She is quoted as having said “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury” and popularised the sporty and athletic look. No corsets as undergarments for the Chanel collection then!

1920s dress by Coco Chanel — Flapper dress by Coco Chanel, 1927-1928 The Metropolitan Museum of Art

I would definitely wear this fabulous 20s blouse by Chanel if I had the chance. Maybe I should ask The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art if I could borrow it. What do you reckon on my chances?

Coco Chanel blouse .C1926-1930 The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art — Day wear a la Coco Chanel

Elsa Schiaparelli, Vogue Paris, February 1927
Photograph by George Hoyningen-Huené
© R.J. Horst

Above and below you can see day wear by my favourite designer Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel’s rival and a fashion revolutionary. Note the cloche hat, and the fabulously wide legged trousers and beach pyjamas.

1920s Schiaparelli — Three gorgeous ladies dressed by Schiaparelli

girl wearing 1920s knickers — Young lady in the 1920s wearing knickers or knee breeches on a camping trip

1920s sportswear for woman took much of its inspiration from that worn by men. Admittedly this was not a new thing, but it became more mainstream in the 1920s, utilised for sporty day wear, not just for wear whilst participating in sporting activities.

1920s motorcycle rider — A woman in the 1920s taking on the great outdoors on her motorcycle and dealing with a breakdown

Helen Richey in menswear style 1920s fashions. — Helen Richey the first commercial female airline pilot in US and friend wearing menswear style 1920s fashions.

Jessie Franklin Turner was an American designer known for her unique designs, indeed In 1923 Poiret was quoted as having declared Franklin Turner “the only designer of genius in the United States.”. She produced this stunning gown which encompasses the simple chemise shaping of the flapper dress and the trend for increasingly long and trailing hemlines which came into play towards the end of the 1920s.

Late 1920s evening gown by Jessie Franklin Turner

The gorgeous dress below was designed by Jean Patou, the beadwork being influenced by the Egyptian Revival movement. Read more about the dress and its designer here http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75019/byzance-evening-dress-patou-jean/?utm_source=vam.ac.uk&utm_medium=redirect&utm_content=images&utm_campaign=legacy-images-2012

Jean Patou 1920s dress — Jean Patou evening gown, 1924

This stunning beaded 1920s dress in the Egyptian revival style sold at Augusta Auctions for $1495 in October 2006.

I just adore the bohemian style of the 1920s, the fascination with the exotic, far-flung countries a and romanticised gypsy fashion.

1920s Gypsy fashion in films — A photo from Life magazine showing backstage on a film set. The woman are wearing gypsy inspired bohemian fashions.

1920's Flapper Headpiece with Embroidery and Bead Fringe — An Egyptian Revival inspired bohemian headress

1920s fashion has recently been popularised in the UK following the nation’s obsession with the television series Downton Abbey and Peaky Blinders. Here at Gingermegs Vintage I have a growing collection of 1920s day wear and evening wear including glamorous gowns and simple day wear. The Birmingham Mail did an article on how to get the Peaky Blinders look, and included a few of my pieces. Read the article and check out the items here http://www.birminghammail.co.uk/whats-on/shopping/peaky-blinders-fashion-how-dress-8041312

I am slowly adding my 20s dresses, coats, blouses and accessories to the website, it is taking some time though so be patient! See what I have already put up here http://www.gingermegs-vintage.com/shop/?filter_vintage=30 and keep checking back for more!